Tuesday, March 27, 2018

Saturday, March 17, 2018

Stitcher's Garden Quilt Top

 Yay! Wahoo!  Yipee! Hurray! Whopee!

I've been working on this off and on for a year and a half. Before we left for Jerusalem I cut out everything I would need for each block and put it in a zip lock bag. I was afraid that if I waited until I got here there would be things I needed that I wouldn't be able find. I got interrupted by two baby quilts, several other projects and LOTS of mending for the students :)  I am thrilled with it!
I am getting worried about suitcase room though. I may have to leave all of my clothes here (guess then I would HAVE to go shopping...). I plan on quilting it when I get home - but it's been so long since I have done quilting I will have to re-learn how! We will be going home in August, but I'm really trying not to think about it too much so my brain can stay focused... Yeah, good luck with that!

Saturday, February 24, 2018

I got the RED out!



You may remember from this post that as I was working on all the blocks to my dream quilt, I discovered that one of the fabrics I was using was bleeding. Such a tragic discovery! I had already put the fabric in several blocks.

I took the rest of the fabric (because I LOVED it) and soaked it in a salt and vinegar solution and tried all kinds of other tricks, but it just would not stop bleeding. So the only thing I could do was find some more fabric, take apart all the blocks I had made, and re-make them all with fabric that doesn't bleed.

That took so much work that by the time I was done I was pretty discouraged, so I put it all aside and worked on some other things.

I'm finally back working on the quilt again, but here are all my "new blocks" without the evil red dye bleeding fabric!


Wednesday, February 14, 2018

Saturday, January 20, 2018

Sewing Lesson #8 (Clean and Oil my Sewing Machine?)

Should I clean and oil my Sewing Machine?  Ummm, YES!  Most service departments for sewing machines will tell you that many of the machines they receive for repair only needed to be oiled and cleaned.  Sometimes your machine may need to go in for repair, but it won't be as often if you do keep up on the maintenance.

Cleaning and Oiling your machine is actually pretty easy, so don't be afraid! Don't use canned air on your machine to blow lint away.  Parts of the inside of your machine are lubricated with lithium grease, and if you blow canned air into your machine you will powerfully blow lint into the grease.  It will stick like glue. Not good.  Eventually that will be like little grains of sand, damaging your machine over time. Better than using canned air, use a vacuum. I bought little tiny attachments for my vacuum that I talked about HERE. You can also make a cardboard or paper cone that you can tape over then end of the small attachment on your vacuum and get out quite a bit of lint. I also make a loop on the end of a pipe cleaner and can bring up lint from below the bobbin or plate area.

The threads you sew with and the fabrics you sew on all cause lint build up. Whatever you are sewing, lint will build up in your machine. The bobbin area needs to be cleaned frequently, some times a tiny little bit of lint in exactly the wrong place can cause your machine to fail to work properly.

Dust is also not good for your machine. Do you go for weeks without using you machine?  Think of the dust that builds up in places you don't get to often - that can get into your machine. If I go out of town or something comes up and I know I'm not going to be using my machine for a while I unplug it and cover it up. Even if your machine didn't come with any kind of cover, just lay a towel over it - or there a lots of free patterns online to make a custom cover for your machine.

When you oil your machine please make sure you are using SEWING MACHINE OIL, not the same as regular household oil. Sewing Machine oil is light colored, almost transparent. Your sewing machine manual will have instructions for how to oil your machine. There are many videos on line by kind and helpful people! Go to YouTube and search with the name of your machine and there is a very good chance you will find a demonstration.

After you have oiled your machine, sew on a piece of scrap fabric, just in case some of the oil is hiding somewhere and will get on your fabric.  After your scrap is oil free you are good to go! A clean machine is a happy machine!

Wednesday, January 17, 2018

Sewing Lesson #7 (Trouble Shooting)

Sometimes when you want to sew, things just won't work.  We've all been there, pulling our hair out in frustration! Here are some things to try when you just can't get going and you don't understand why!

The first thing you should always do when you are having issues is re-thread your machine. Take the thread out all the way to the spool. Re-thread making sure you are not skipping any of the thread guides. Also re-thread your bobbin, double check which way the thread should be coming off the bobbin to make sure you have it right.  If that doesn't fix your problem change to a new needle.  These three steps will fix 90% of the problems you have.  Not necessarily because you did them wrong, but threads can slip, needles get dull, little tangles sometimes happen.

Skipped Stitches - often the fault of the needle. Your needle my have a slight burr, be dull or be slightly bent - but so slight that you can't detect it. Replace  your needle.  If you are sewing on a knit, and you are getting lots of skipped stitches, change to a ball point needle, and that should fix it.  If you are sewing on something that is very thick you may need to increase your stitch length.

Breaking/Shredding Thread - if your thread keeps breaking there are a couple of things you should check out.  Is your tension too tight (maybe a little visitor to your sewing room played with your machine?)  Is there something that is catching the thread so it isn't feeding smoothly off the spool?  Sometimes there can be a little rough spot on the edge of your spool that will grab the thread. Try using a spool cap or turn your spool over.  Is the eye of your needle too small for the diameter of your thread?  Try a needle with a larger eye.

Loops of thread - if you are getting lots of loose thread under your fabric, but the top looks fine, that means there is no tension on the top thread.  You may need to increase the tension on your machine.  If that doesn't fix it, re-thread making sure your presser foot is raised while you go through the tension discs.  Sometimes a little knot of thread can get caught in there. In this case you may need to loosen the tension all the way, "floss" your machine with UNWAXED dental floss to remove thread that is caught, then reset your tension.

Seam looks puckered - if your seam looks a little puckered it could be that your tension is too tight. Try loosening the tension. If you are sewing on a very tightly woven fabric, it could look puckered because there just isn't enough room for the thread from your machine to fit between the yarns in the fabric. Try a finer thread and needle. It can look puckered if you are distorting the fabric by stretching it as it goes under the presser foot. You can often adjust the pressure of the presser foot with a knob on top of the machine. Loosen the pressure of the foot and that may help.

A few more things to try.  Make sure you have the correct bobbin for your machine. Clean all the lint out of your bobbin area. Google your problem, there is a lot of online help!  Of course, sometimes even after you have tried everything, your machine may need to go in for repairs.  Most repair shops recommend that you bring in your machine yearly.  I clean and oil my machines myself, so I have to admit I don't take them in that often.  I do take them in if they make a strange sound or have problems that I can't track down on my own.

Good luck with your machine!

Happy Sewing!

Friday, January 12, 2018

Very Beginning Sewing Lesson #6 (Stitch Length and Width)

Most sewing machines have a way to adjust stitch width and stitch length.  Some machines will only do a straight stitch, so they only have stitch length.  Adjusting the stitch length determines how far apart your stitches are.  The largest distance between stitches would be for a basting stitch, so it is easily removed.  A small stitch length would be when the stitches are so close together that they are difficult to remove, which is a good thing at the end of a dart, around a sharp angle or at the beginning and end of seams so they don't come apart.  Quilters also use a small stitch length because their seam allowances are only 1/4", and this helps to hold them, even on small pieces of fabric.

The average stitch length is about 2.5, which comes out to be 10-12 stitches per inch.  For a basting stitch you may use 4, for quilting maybe 1.8.  If your machine has different numbers for you to choose from it may be an older machine, so refer to your manual or experiment with your machine to see what stitch length  you wan to use.

When your machine has a zig-zag stitch or decorative stitches you can adjust how wide those stitches are.  Also, on some machines, you can move the needle position by adjusting the stitch width and keeping it set to a straight stitch.  This means that you can have the needle come down to the right or left of the usual center needle position.  Of course, the presser foot you use has to have some width to the hole for the needle or else the needle will hit your foot.  Also, some machines have multiple needle plates.  That is the plate that surrounds your feed dogs, and has the hole that your needle goes down into when you are making stitch.  Some of those needle plates only have a small round hole for straight stitches in the center needle position.  If you want to adjust your stitch width you need to make sure the needle plate you have on your machine has an oval hole for the needle to go into, rather than a round hole.

If you can't find a way to adjust stitch width and stitch length, and you have looked in your manual, don't fret.  Some basic machines have this built in so that when you choose your stitch you also choose your stitch length and width (the Janome Jem Gold for example).

Get to know your machine and try all the different options you have for stitch choices and how you can change the way they look by adjusting the length and width.  Knowing exactly what your machine can do will give you confidence to try more things!

Happy Sewing!

Monday, January 8, 2018

Very Beginning Sewing Lesson #5 (Needles are Important)

I'm going to start with the very basics of how to change a needle.  Before you change the needle on your machine stick a post it note or something under the needle. Needles are often dropped and if they go down into your machine you can have a big problem.

* Remove the old needle and discard in a safe place - I keep an old plastic container where I discard sharps.
* Pick up new needle, put the FLAT side of the shank toward the BACK, rounded in front.
* Place it up into the needle bar as far as it will go, you can damage your machine if the needle is not inserted all the way.
* Tighten the screw for the needle. Don't over tighten or you will have trouble changing your needle next time.
* Using the handwheel, bring the needle down and back up to it's highest position, now you know it is inserted correctly and won't hit your bobbin.

If you want to know more about needles, keep reading.

Needles seem like such simple little things, don't they?  Not so! They are made with precision.  There are books written just about sewing machine needles, It is amazing how exact they have to be made in order to do their job correctly, and there are many different kinds with a variety of purposes.


First you need to know what kind to buy.  A Sharp needle is made for sewing on woven fabrics. It is called a "Sharp" because, of course, the point is very sharp.  A Ballpoint needle is for sewing on knits.  A Ballpoint needle has a rounded tip so it will go between the yarn making up fabric, instead of piercing it. A Universal needle is between the two, can sew on woven and knit fabric. It has a slightly rounded but still sharp point. So why not always go with a Universal needle?  If you sew occasionally,  Universal needles may be all that you will ever need, but the phrase "jack of all trades and master of none" fits the situation here. If you are sewing on a knit and you are having lots of skipped stitches and have tried re-threading, you need a ballpoint needle. I sew with knits frequently, and I always get better results with a ballpoint needle.

Needles come in different sizes, depending on what thread you are using.  Most spools of thread will tell you what size needle works best.  Topstitch thread is heavier than regular thread and needs a bigger eye in the needle.  If the eye is too small it will gradually shred the thread while you are sewing and you will get lots of thread breaks.

Start off with a pack of Universal needles with multiple sizes.  If you don't have the size needle that you need, it's better to go up in size - unless you are sewing on vinyl or leather.  You don't want to poke a bigger hole than necessary in those.  The numbers on the packages tell you the size - just remember the smaller numbers are for finer needles and smaller eyes, larger numbers for thicker needles and larger eyes. Check your spool of thread to see what will work best for you.

There are many more choices of needles, but these are the basics and should help you get started!

Happy Sewing!

Friday, January 5, 2018

Very Beginning Sewing Lesson #4 (Basic Sewing Supplies)

After you figure out how to use your machine, of course now you want to make something!  I'm going to recommend some basic sewing supplies.  Everyone has their favorites. I will tell you what mine are.  There are many different opinions, and of course, how often you sew and the kinds of things you make will determine some of the supplies you will need.


Basic Sewing Supplies

Sharp scissors
Thread
Seam ripper
Pins/Pin Cushion
Machine needles
Measuring tape

Trying to sew without these will be very difficult, so get these basics.  A seam ripper may have come with your machine.  Your machine may also have included extra bobbins, sewing machine oil (NOT REGULAR HOUSEHOLD OIL!), a small brush, small screw driver and some plastic circular discs that go on top of spools of thread.

If these things did not come with your machine, you will eventually need to get them.  Put them on your shopping list.  If you sew often you will want to have them soon.  Let me explain what some of them are.

Machine Accessories

Extra Bobbins are important to me because I do a lot of sewing, and I want to be able to put all the different colors I use on different bobbins so I am all set and ready to sew.  I hate the thought of unwinding the thread on a bobbin so I can put a different color on it. What a waste! MAKE SURE YOU BUY THE CORRECT BOBBINS! There are lots of bobbin choices out there, with many different measurements. Just because it seems like it fits does NOT mean it is the right bobbin.

Sewing Machine Oil is absolutely NOT the same as household oil - even if that oil has a picture of a sewing machine on it!  Whoever started doing that should have to replace all the machines that have been gunked up and ruined!  Sewing machine oil is much lighter than regular oil, and is vital to keeping your machine happy.  Sewing machine repair people will tell you that when someone brings them a machine with problems, it is usually because it is full of lint and needs oil.

A Small Brush is needed to sweep out lint in the bobbin area.  Thread causes lint, and if you want things to work well, you have to keep it clean.

A Small Screw Driver is needed, depending on your machine, to take off the needle plate, maybe to change needles or presser feet or for opening and oiling your machine.  Check to see if you need one.  If any of those things can't be done without a screw driver you will need one very soon!


Spool Caps, those small plastic discs that go over the end of your spool, are very important.  They may look like some little cheap, unimportant part, but without them the thread can get caught along the rough edge of the spool.  This can mess up your sewing, and it is so hard to figure out what is happening!  Really, that is all it takes to drive you crazy.  Seriously.

Next Step Essentials

These next things will come in handy if you do much sewing. Sewing clothing takes different tools than quilting.  I do both, so I may or may not have drawers over flowing with various accessories that are very precious to me. Maybe.

Disappearing Marking Pens are very handy to have.  For generations people have been marking their fabric with chalk, or bar soap.  Those methods work, but there are so many options these days.  My favorite is just a water soluble pen.  It makes an easy to see bright blue mark, then when you get it wet, it disappears.  I also have pens that make a bright mark and then disappear when you iron over them.  I also have an air pen that makes a purple mark that disappears in a few hours all by itself.  Lots of choices here!

Hand Sewing Needles come in handy too.  My motto has always been, "If you can't do it on a sewing machine, why bother?", but honestly, sometimes you do need to do something by hand.  It may be sewing on a button or snap, tacking down a facing, etc.


Thread Snips are so handy, and easy to grab to quickly snip loose threads.  I keep some near my machine and my iron so I can quickly get rid of messy looking threads.

An Iron is a necessity to me.  It makes a huge difference in the finished look of whatever you are making.  I joke that I sew with my iron as much as my sewing machine!  You can make things look so much more crisp and exact and finished when you have been pressing all throughout the construction of your project.

Now if you want to quilt, which I LOVE, there are other things you will need - rotary cutter and mat, various sizes of rulers, 1/4" presser foot and whatever the latest quilting gadget is...

Until next time --- Happy Sewing!


Thursday, January 4, 2018

Very Beginning Sewing Lesson #3 (Upper Tension)

So how did your first line of stitching turn out?  I hope it looked great ... but if it didn't, never fear!  We can figure this out!  A good stitch is balanced.  The top thread is supposed to pull the bobbin thread up to the middle of the two layers a fabric.

This is determined by the tension on your thread. There are tension discs that your top thread goes between when you thread your machine.  These discs are open when your presser foot is up, and closed when the presser foot is down.  Always have your presser foot lifted when you thread your machine, so the thread can seat properly between the tension discs.  If your thread doesn't get between the discs, your top thread won't have tension on it, and you will get  loops of loose thread on the bottom of
your fabric.  The stitches may look perfect from the top, but the bobbin is pulling too much of the top thread down under the fabric.  If this happens you should re-thread your machine (making sure your presser foot is lifted).

You can adjust your top tension, usually with a dial.  The tension dial will be set to somewhere near the middle. A higher number means more tension, lower number is less tension.  If you are moving it all the way to one end or the other there must be another problem.  We will talk about other problems and solutions in another post.

If your tension is too tight it may pucker the stitches a little or make your thread fray or snap or pull bobbin thread to the top. If that happens you should loosen your tension a little.

Here is the most important thing to remember - 9 times out of 10 when your machine is doing something odd one of these three things will fix it:

*Re-thread the top thread
*Take out the bobbin and make sure you are putting it in correctly
*Put in a new needle

It is a magical solution to most sewing machine problems, write that down and put it next to your machine!

HERE is a blog with some beginner sewing projects - choose one and let's start sewing!


Happy Sewing!!

Very Beginning Sewing Lesson #2 (Sewing Machine FUNdamentals)

You made it to the second lesson - hooray for you!

Once you have your machine threaded with the top thread and the bobbin...

First: pull some thread from the needle so you have about a 6 inch length.  Hold on to that thread with your left hand as your turn the handwheel with your right hand.  Make one rotation so that the take up lever is again in the highest position.  Now pull on the thread you are holding with your left hand, this will bring your bobbin thread up to the surface of your machine.

In the back of your machine, behind the needle you will find the lever to raise and lower your presser foot. 

You probably have several presser feet that came with your machine. We will talk about all the different presser feet another time.  The one you see here is  a quarter inch foot that I use a lot for piecing quilts, or other things where I am using a straight stitch.


This is called the "feed dogs". I have no idea where it got it's name, but, well, that's what it is.  The feed dogs come up, move back, go down and come up in the front again.  With the presser foot pushing your fabric against the feed dogs, that is what propels your fabric through the machine.

Second: Now just to make sure we get some actual sewing done, lift the presser foot, slip two layers of fabric under it, lower the presser foot and push gently on the pedal.  Hopefully you sewed those two pieces of fabric together!!

Don't worry if things don't look quite right, we will talk about what can go wrong and how to fix it in our next lesson.

And don't forget to comment on what a great mom I am   :)

Very Beginning Sewing Lesson #1 (Threading, etc.)

Much to my delight, my youngest daughter has decided she would like to learn how to sew!  I did some mending for her while she was visiting over the holidays, and she decided that was a really practical skill to have.

Now I have the dilemma of how to teach her while we live thousands of miles apart.  Of course there are tutorials on line... but I want to teach her, ya know?

Anyway, I'm beginning some sewing lessons here, just for fun, and you never know, maybe another daughter or daughter-in-law will decide they want to learn!

Lesson #1

First: learn to thread your machine, wind a bobbin and put it in correctly.  I could show you how to thread my machine, but yours would be a little different. Refer to your manual, usually available on line if you don't have a printed copy.  Correctly threading your machine is very important.  It will not sew well if you skip any of the steps.  Often there are also YouTube videos if you search with the name of your machine. 

Second: if you have a mechanical machine instead of a computerized machine, the most important habit you can learn is to use your handwheel to always bring the take up lever 
to it's highest point whenever you stop your machine, before you try to pull your fabric out from under your needle.



In order to make a stitch, your machine has to pull up some extra thread so there is enough to slide around the bobbin to make a stitch. The take up lever  moves up and down, and you can see it as you watch your machine sew.  Here is a link with a short explanation of how a machine makes a stitch:


In order to bring your take up lever to it's highest position, you need to turn the handwheel (it's round and on the right end of your machine) toward you - in a counter clock wise motion. If you move it away from you in a clock wise motion you can jam your machine - fixable, but make your life easy and get in the habit of moving it toward you.



Here is a helpful diagram I found online. 

Hoo boy, I am just too funny! You know you are here because you think I'm funny too! No, really, HERE is a helpful diagram I found online.


Yeah, that's a little more helpful, huh? OK, that's the lesson for today. More soon!

Happy Sewing!!

(You should probably make a comment like, "Thanks Mom, this is great"... or something)

Saturday, October 28, 2017

Peeling Print on your T-shirt?

I wish I had taken a picture! Well, I didn't think of it, but here is a fix for a poorly done heat transfer on a T-shirt that starts to peel off.  Now, this is not the same as an old print that is cracking, I didn't try it on one of those, I suspect the results might not be the same.

Lay shirt flat on ironing board, you are going to be applying a lot of heat, and you don't want to press wrinkles into your shirt that will be difficult to remove. Put a piece of parchment paper over the peeling print and press over that with a hot iron - about 10 seconds.  DON'T TOUCH YOUR IRON DIRECTLY TO YOUR SHIRT!  Wait 30 seconds and slowly peel the parchment paper off.  I did  this while it was still warm, but not totally cooled off.  If you missed a spot and part of it is still peeling, just do it again.

I fixed two shirts for my grandkids that were visiting me, and they are as good as new!  They were cheap shirts bought in the Old City of Jerusalem, but I would like for them to enjoy the shirts as long as they can.

If you want your printed shirts to last longer, wash and dry them inside out - or better yet, don't put them in the dryer at all.

Good luck with your shirt!

Monday, October 16, 2017

Friday, October 6, 2017

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